It was a long driving day but at 5.30pm I went into Bamako. I wanted to stay at a different place. I heard something about a camp site called the sleeping camel. It was not easy to find. But after asking some people I was at the door.
One guy I asked was even calling the place to ask how to find them. And another guy on a moped was leading me at the end to the place. I was quite tired. Normal I reckon after almost 12 hours in the car. The sleeping camel was a very nice place. The best place so far. A little bit pricy but it is worth it. Many people were passing by. From a dutch couple for example I learned it is possible to get a laissez passer here in Bamako in the senegales Embassy. I couldn´t quite believe it. Everybody kept on telling me, Senegal without a carnet de passages is impossible. I gave it a try and voilá after one hour I had a laissez passer for one month for Senegal. The second important thing I had to do was the visa. At the border they just gave me a stemp but no visa, but they charged for it. So I had to go to immigrations to get the visa which was no problem at all. Bring in the passporte one morning and pick it up the next afternoon.
The polution in Bamako was not as bad as the last time or maybe I am getting used to it. But like the last time I enjoyed moving into town by foot. The sleeping camel was on the other side of the Niger so every time I went into town I had to cross the river. It was quite a long walk every time, but I still liked it. Only when I went to pick up my passporte I was a little bit late and I was in a rush. It is not a good idea by I don´t know how many degrees to rush into town. When I arrived I had to cool down for quite a while. Next lesson learned. Always take your time. The next problem was my bank card. The card was not working since the last time I was in Bamako. The card doesn´t even slip into the ATM. I tried several ATM´s at different banks but it was the same every where. It looked like the card itself was broken. So the only chance I had was using Western Union to have some money sent over. At the sleeping camel was an interesting mix of people. The owner was from Australia. A place which I can recommend.
I left the next morning which was a Saturday. I got up quite early and first I went to a Western Union place to pick up the money which was sent over. This seems to work very well. I just don´t know yet how much they charged for their service. Anyway I went out of town through Kati towards Kita. I expected a dirt track but it was a paved road. So it was an easy ride. In Kita the paved road ended. I was asking my way through town and at the end two kids were sitting in my car leading me. At the city limits I had to pay 1000CFA for some sort of I don´t know charge for passing the city. I found that very wierd. How ever, the first 100 km of the track were not too bad. Some of the road was still under construction. It ended in Oualia. All of a sudden the track turned into a donkey trail. The speed was dropping to maybe 10-20km/h. I didn´t even get to Bafoulabé were I had to cross the river. I was passing through same villages and asked everybody to make sure I was still on the right road. Just before nightfall I had my first bush camp and it was great. I just drove maybe 100yards of the track and stopped. I saw the most beautiful moonrise ever. I just stood there open mouthed. You have to imagine a country site totally quite, listening to nothing else but the sound of silence, and all of a sudden you spot a red light behind the trees which was the upper curve of a big, red full moon rising. Stunning. The whole night there was not one single soul approaching my car. Only once I heard this noise of footsteps coming closer, and I still haven´t figured it out if it was a animal or a human being. I was looking for the noise with a tourch but couldn´t find the source and than the footsteps turned into a different direction. I left early the next morning.
I met a guy who said it is better to go to Mahina instead of Bafoulabé. In Mahina I spotted some truck drivers and asked them for the bridge. There is a train bridge crossing the river which can be used by car. It turned out the place was a work shop and the mecanic needed a ride into town. He led me towards the bridge. This bridge didn´t look very save. The bridge itself is strong enough but with a car you have to drive on some sheet metal on the side of the rail. It made a horrible noise and the river is very far down, but the mecanic in the car didn´t look scared at all so I thought it might be quite allright. In the middle of the bridge some sort of gard turned up to tell me I can´t cross in the car. He asked for 5000CFA. I gave him1000 and kept on driving. The mecanic who wanted me to bring tools and to be his partner in his work shop showed me the way out of town. The track got really bad by now. I was lost several times. Once I ended up in front of a bridge which was not high enough for the Landrover, so I had to go all the way back to look for another possibility to reach the other side. In Galougo it went even worse. First I was lost again at the side of the rail. In the distance I saw two kids running towards me, I waited for them. The younger one was maybe only 5years old, his brother maybe 9 or 10. The young one hopped in the car and showed me the road. This was the worst I have ever done to the Landrover. I couldn´t imagine the car would do it.
Some guys from Bamako turned up with music equipment. It was not the best festival I have seen but the atmophere was great. All the people from the nearby villages turned up. Some of them playing music themselfes. Some of the women helped in the kitchen.
The first night I was helping out behind the bar. All in all I had a great time in Gouina for the second time. On Sunday morning I left and gave Fatime who was doing the kitchen as well a lift back to Kayes.
Back in Kayes which takes always three hours to get there I dropped off Fatime and went into the lodge I was in twice before already. Somehow it is nice to know a place without looking for it first. But it didn`t take long before I got bored. I decided to go to Senegal via dirt tracks and to visit the national parc of Nioloko-Koba.
The link underneeth will lead you to picassa photo store.
https://picasaweb.google.com/106213480355655195189/AfricaTrip20102011MaliTheSecond#
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